The Penny-Pinching Artist: Framing Need Not Be Murder (By Price Tag)

I have it from the mouth of a professional framer: Michael’s frame jobs are overpriced. Smaller shops like his don’t exactly run cheap, either. So, can artists with limited budgets really do quality framing on their own? My reply:

  

Full disclosure: a year ago, I didn’t even know what a “mat” was, nor did I have any concept of framing as an art unto itself. To me, a frame was a utilitarian object with which one could attach artwork to the wall more efficiently than with putty or nails. I have since been reformed, thanks in large part to being lovingly nagged into doing a solo art show.

Since I’m not able to make frames from scratch, I rely on second-hand ones from Goodwill and other thrifty sources. On average, they cost about $6. I prefer wood or wood composite for look and overall ease of use. (Have you ever tried screwing something into a metal frame?) My experience is limited, but here are some things I’ve learned:

What You’ll Need

Pliers and hammer—many uses in removing old contents of frames and putting in the new

Lemon oil furniture polish—improves appearance of wood frames

Mat—that cardboard-y frame thing that goes between the art and the glass

Backing (my name)—that cardboard-y sheet that goes behind the artwork to protect and hold it in the frame

IMPORTANT NOTE: Canvas artworks like oils and acrylics generally don’t need glass, mats, or backing, but more fragile ones like watercolors, pastels, and pencils do.

Offset screws—a delightful invention that can be flipped around to attach an artwork that sticks out of the frame or sinks down into it

Electric drill—for the screws…unless you have fingers of iron

Dust cover (my name)—the sheet of brown (or whatever) color paper that covers the entire back of the frame and artwork

Elmer’s glue or double-sided tape—for attaching dust cover

X-acto knife and/or scissors—for cutting paper

Vent hole (my name)—a small hole in the dust cover (only necessary for canvas artworks like oils and maybe acrylics) that lets the canvas breathe

Eyelet screws (my name)—screws with looped heads that hold wire

D-rings—screws with rings attached, more “high-class” than eyelet screws

Picture-hanging wire—multi-strand wire, more durable than baling wire or string

How to Pick the Right Frame

Bring a tape measure. If framing a canvas, measure the back inside edge of the frame. If working with a piece that needs glass and mat, measure the inside edge of the mat. Mats are particularly difficult to find in the right size. If you have the ability to cut your own, I applaud you. Mine usually turn out looking like chainsaw art. Sometimes I buy a frame just to get the mat inside.

Test the solidness of the frame by tugging the sides to see if the corners are loose.

Ask yourself some questions:

Does the color and design of the frame and mat match or compliment the color and design of the artwork? Wood can be stained a new shade, and mats can be painted a new color, but it’s nice to be able to work with the original.

Does the size/color/decoration of the frame and mat overwhelm the artwork?

(Not my art) Too much frame and mat

(My art) Better balanced

(My art) Too little frame--and no mat

Assembly

Because there are plenty of helpful instructions on the Internet and elsewhere for how to frame things yourself, I won’t do a step-by-step. I’ll just mention a few handy tips you might not learn on the Internet.

Scratches in a frame can be corrected with markers or a dab of acrylic paint.

Make sure the frame is thick enough so the screws don’t poke through to the other side, and wide enough so nothing hangs over the edge.

Drill carefully; some wood might crack.

Double-sided tape is the cleanest way to apply the paper dust cover, but sometimes it doesn’t adhere properly, so test a little piece before you lay it all the way around.

If the dust cover is curling crazily and you can’t get it to stick, try pressing it against a flat surface like a table or door, and rubbing it down with a wet cloth to smooth it out. This will also help it dry tight. A friend of mine recommended completely soaking the paper in water, but I haven’t gone that extreme yet.

I was told to use an x-acto knife to trim the edges of the dust cover, but that ended up looking messy most of the time. I find it easier to just use scissors. The main goal is to make sure none of the dust cover shows over the edge of the frame. An x-acto knife is good for making the vent hole—just don’t cut too deep!

D-rings are the “official” hanging apparatus, and art shows and galleries are likely to require them. However, eyelet screws are much more economical. They can be a little hard to put in. My method is to pound a small nail into the spot (maybe 1/4 inch deep), pry that up, then twist the screw in with my fingers and the rest of the way with pliers.

I think there might be some disagreement in the art-framing world as to whether vent-holes are necessary, but I figure they can’t hurt. The professional framer I referenced earlier didn’t think dust covers were even necessary for canvases. I take objection; I’ve had to clean them.

There’s a basic concept that applies to all framing jobs: the frame is there to enhance the artwork. The frame can command attention, but only so it can draw the eye inward toward the picture. If the frame retains attention, then it has failed its purpose. It might seem unfair after all the work—and sometimes physical pain—it took to put that frame together. But the truth is that a frame is most beautiful when it is barely noticed, except as a seamless piece of the greater work of art.

“He must increase, but I must decrease.” –John the Baptist, speaking of Jesus (John 3:30)

…That they may adorn the doctrine of God our Savior in all things. –St. Paul, in a word to servants (Titus 2:10)